The Heritage Hiker’s Guide to Lower Machen

History of Lower Machen

Lower Machen (Machen Isaf) is a small hamlet between Newport and Caerphilly, in the county of Gwent.  A place often overlooked by those driving along the A468 to and from their destination. This small hamlet is a designated conservation area (1976). The heritage listings are mostly linked to the bigger story of the Morgans of Tredegar (featured in the Newport blog series). It is a fine example of an area with a long and mixed history and a great place to start. Many will find a similar hunt of their local area is likely to turn up lots of heritage not obvious at first glance.

The Iron Bridge ©heritagehiker

Lower Machen is set in an area surrounded by prehistoric settlement and is overlooked by the Iron Age hillfort  on top of the ridge of Coed Craig Ruppera, where the remains of a much later summerhouse built on top of a motte can still be seen . The hamlet starts its’ story as a settlement in its own right with its scatters of Roman finds, Roman Coins and pottery and is soon followed by the building of the early medieval church of St Michaels and All Angels. The church was later visited and used by the Morgan family at Ruperra Castle (1626)   as a place of worship, which they travelled to via a coach track and over an Iron Bridge (1829) which are both still viewable on the circular walk of public footpaths that run around the area.

Ruperra Castle sits within a landscape now managed by the Ruperra Conservation Trust  and Ruperra Castle Preservation Trust who seek to raise awareness of its history. Although the castle is in private ownership it can be viewed from the footpaths running around its current boundry.

Points of Interest

Other buildings of interest are:

The Old School House ©heritagehiker

There is a local circular route that takes in most of what is talked about today that has been mapped by the local council. The walk takes in the main features described above, a little out of date but the spot for parking and the route remain relevant. At present both Ruperra Castle and Plas Machen are both in private ownership and can only be viewed from a distance. Most local amenities can be found in Machen a short drive away –  but be warned at present there are no local toilets in use and the closest local pubs, if you fancy making a day of it and enjoying a lunch, are at The Cefn Mably Arms at Michaelston-y-Fedw  or the Maenllywd  Inn at Rudry both just short drives away. It is advised that you check their website for current opening hours and booking information.

Lower Machen – Prehistory and Roman

The earliest evidence of occupation/land use can be found in the form of flint tools, found locally. These are often random, chance finds found in ploughed fields and give an indication of people from what was once called the Stone Age over 5,000 years ago.

Twyn Pant-Teg Barrow©heritagehiker

A little further out than the hamlet core but looking up Bronze Age barrows can be found along the ridgeline. The most well-known being  Twyn Pant-Teg barrow and the neat addition of a palstave axe found up on Mynydd Machen which together begin to tell a story of settlement in the area over 3,500 years ago. There is a walk across the ridge called the Sirhowy Valley Walk or Rhymney Ridge Walk that takes you past Twyn Pant-Teg and many other hidden heritage gems such as the now surface rubble house of Polly Morgan who lived off grid up along the ridge in a small stone cottage until the end of the 1950s

A short walk from Lower Machen through the small village of Dreathen and up into the woods of Coed Craig Rupperra are the earthwork remains of the Iron Age Hillfort, the lumps and bumps of which can still be seen today. Do not be fooled by the later summerhouse or notes to a motte which are interesting stories but much later additions to the top of this hill.

Hillforts are an area of settlement defined by earthworks often described as defensive and can be found across the expanse of Wales, England and southern edge of Scotland. They are usually linked (and cross over in some cases) with the incoming of the Romans. Which brings us nicely on to the evidence of Roman settlement and lead mining in the area.

Roman Activity

As previously mentioned there is plenty of evidence to suggest buildings and structures dating to the Roman period existed in Lower Machen and the surrounding area. There is even talk of a possible Roman fort although no evidence for this has been found… yet.

There is evidence of Roman lead mining in the nearby wooded areas covering Coed Pwll Du. Where lead is found often so is silver in smaller traces as is the case here, in fact the proportion of silver found in lead ore at Coed Pwll Du is higher than any other found in south Wales (presently).

Within the mines Roman finds such as the Roman bone comb have been found (Bristol Exploration Club in 1965) There is evidence to suggest there was in fact a small mining community where now the hamlet of Lower Machen exists; founded no earlier than the 1st  century and ending no later than the 3rd century. If this is the case it makes it a noteworthy entry to the history of south east Wales.

Word of caution – It isn’t advised that the mines are visited as they lay within a dangerous area of pits and drops but the general area can be visited by following paths and walks starting at Llwyn Hir Picnic Area And Car Park

Again no toilets are accessible but there are picnic benches at the above and two local pubs if you fancy making a day of it and enjoying a lunch or simply stopping for rest and refreshment at either The Cefn Mably Arms at Michaelston-y-Fedw or the Maenllywd  Inn at Rudry both short drives away. It is advised that you check their website for current opening hours and booking information.

Medieval Lower Machen

The evidence for Medieval occupation at Lower Machen is limited. However, for a small hamlet there is plenty to suggest that it held a strategic place in Welsh Medieval history.

St Michael and All Angels ©heritagehiker

The earliest Medieval mention appears in the visitor guide for St Michael and All Angels where it states that “tradition is the Church was originally founded by Glywys ap Solor in the 5th century. He was the early Welsh king of Glywysing (modern day Glamorgan).”

The first found documentary evidence of a Church in Machen is in 1102 when Robert de Haia (a Norman overlord) gave the churches at Bassleg, Machen and Bedwas to the Abbey of Glastonbury. The church as seen today is made up of various phases of building from the 15th century onwards. The churchyard has the added addition of a medieval cross base  typical of the period.

Medieval Cross Base St Michael and All Angels ©heritagehiker

If open, it is recommended to look inside the church at a proposed Roman ‘gorgon’s head’ and notable hatchments and memorial tablets to various Morgan’s of Tredegar. A walk around the graveyard is just as interesting and it is worth spending time looking at some of local tombstones eulogies. You will even find a stone dedicated to Fred Secombe, brother of the late Harry Secombe, in the newer graveyard extension. Fred Secombe was the Rector of Machen between 1954-1959 and the Portland stone alter inside the church was donated by his brother Harry Secombe.

View looking towards Lower Machen
View looking towards Lower Machen St Michael and All Angels ©heritagehiker

Coed Craig-Ruperra

Around the start of the 12th century a motte was built up on the ridge of Coed Craig-Ruperra, it is believed to have been built by the Normans as part of the takeover of south east Wales. It is likely the motte was topped with an early wooden defensive structure as its ‘castle’. Modern investigations have shown evidence for medieval occupation but no evidence for a stone structure replacement. Rumours are that later a tower was built on the site, known locally as Cadwgan’s Tower  after a skeleton was found during digging of foundations for the later summerhouse whose stone remains can still be seen on top of the hill.

Just a short walk away from the hamlet there are the remains of a little known medieval castle, nestled into the hillside above Lower Machen, called Castell Meredydd The castle has been linked to Maeredydd Gethin, prince of Gwynllwg, and was built in the early 13th century. It is listed as the only Welsh castle in Gwent! Evidence of the earthwork and part of the masonry round tower is all that now remains. It is on private land but it is visible from a footpath that runs close by.

View from Coed Craig-Ruperra Ridge looking down onto New Mansion ©heritagehiker

Just a little further over and down from Coed Craig-Ruperra near Ruperra Home Farm is where New Mansion can be found. It is a standing example of a late medieval storeyed house that saw conversion in the 18th century into an agricultural building, which explains the more modern barn like appearance and unusual external architectural features. Once again the structure is on private land but can be viewed from the footpath nearby.

Lower Machen – Post Medieval to Present

No virtual trip to Lower Machen could just skip over the main houses of Plas Machen and Machen House or Ruperra Castle. The circular route as mentioned in the overview  will take you to and past all that is mentioned below..

Intrinsically linked to the history of Newport is Plas Machen, a house whose origins began in 1490 with Thomas Morgan. The house was expanded in the 16th century and heavily remodelled in the 19th century. It was the main residence of the Morgan family until their move to Tredegar House in 1660. Amazingly, earthworks of its original Tudor integrated garden with its layout of terracing, walls and fishponds still remain. Its impressive later façade and high stacked chimneys make it easy to see why it has been chosen as a site for filming over the years, most recently for the series Sherlock.

Situated close to Plas Machen are the later Plas Cottages a row of originally 3 worker cottages (now merged into 2 properties). Both Plas Machen, its outbuildings and gardens, plus the cottages are now in private ownership but can be viewed from a public footpath that runs close by.

Ruperra Castle Frontage located near Lower Machen
View of Ruperra Castle from the boundary wall ©heritagehiker

Ruperra Castle

A little further away is Ruperra Castle, originally built in 1626 by Sir Thomas Morgan (possibly over the site of an earlier house)    The castle is a mock castle built to impress, it is set in its own landscape and was known for its deer park and impressive gardens. Indeed, it was fit for a king and King Charles I visited in 1645. It has suffered from extensive fire damage: the last devastating fire in 1941 has left the shell that is visible today. Its history has been researched by the Ruperra Conservation Trust   and Ruperra Castle Preservation Trust    who do an excellent job of telling the story and raising the profile of the castle, outbuildings and landscape. Video link here

The castle ruin remains an impressive site within the local landscape. It is in private ownership that can be viewed at a distance from the footbaths that run alongside it.

The Old Post Office ©heritagehiker

18th Century and Later

The Old Post-Office is possibly the oldest surviving house in the hamlet with 18th century beginnings. A little later  within the present village core is Machen House and its gardens, which were built by Reverend Charles Augustus Morgan, the younger brother of the 1st Lord Tredegar between 1831-35. It was the Reverend Morgan who established the Church School in the building opposite the church (still standing). The house is privately owned but is easily viewed from the road. Interestingly you are looking at the reverse of the building, its front now faces out into a field behind.

An early 19th century Toll House  can be partially viewed at the edge of the hamlet in part whilst driving along the A468. Modernised and extended but retaining defining features, it has an interesting past featuring in more recent years as a Japanese Tea Room. It has since reverted to a private residence.

Finally a little off topic but a personal favourite is the ‘Old Warrior’ Oak tree. At over 400 years old it still stands proudly, if not a little worn by the years (and previous lightening strikes). It has been logged on the Woodland Trust database as an ancient tree. It is located a short walk across from the hamlet over the busy A468 and on private land but it is easily viewable on the road to Draethen.

Ancient Oak Tree
Old Warrior Oak Tree and Comet Neowise ©heritagehiker

For articles for areas related to Lower Machen see Caerleon

4 thoughts on “The Heritage Hiker’s Guide to Lower Machen”

  1. That’s a fascinating trapse around a beautiful area, thank you. I’ll have to take a spring walk! Personal favourites have to be Plas Machen (my kind of house!) and the Warrior Tree. Look forward to the next installment

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