The Heritage Hiker’s Guide to Llantwit Major

Where is Llantwit Major?

Llantwit Major – Llanilltud Fawr is a small town set along the Glamorgan Heritage Coastline. It has a rocky beach and a historic urban centre to explore. The town is first recorded in Welsh literature as Caer-Worgorn, with ‘Caer’ suggesting a fortified post-roman settlement. Records show evidence of Roman buildings and a possible villa at the Roman villa ‘Caer Mead’ where excavations revealed bathrooms and mosaic pavements dating from the Roman period. Archaeology would suggest the land in and around modern Llantwit was in use much earlier. Records of prehistoric enclosures (now destroyed) and flint scatters of stone tools and arrowheads show us that the area was occupied in the Neolithic period. Bronze Age burial mounds and small collections of Bronze age tools and weapons that show a continuation of land use through the period. Two Iron Age hillforts defend the coast and hint to a time of potential conflict.

Castle Ditches Hillfort

Castle Ditches Hillfort (not to be confused with Castle Ditches at Llancarfan) is located near the beach. It is an Iron Age hillfort partly lost to the sea. Late 3^rd century Roman coins found within the site suggest use well into the Roman period. The site is linked with cultivation of the area.

Summerhouse Hillfort

Summerhouse is a promontory hillfort, partly Iron Age, partly Roman, located on the edge of cliffs has been partly destroyed by erosion. The main enclosure is defended by three banks and ditches, within this is a smaller single banked enclosure which is probably of an earlier date. No trace of internal inhabitation was found apart from a lower stone of a beehive quern.

Interesting there are the much later stone remains within its enclosure from a 18^th-19^th century summerhouse.

Caer Mead Roman Villa

Very little remains of Caer Mead Roman Villa , situated about 3/4 of a mile NW of the town of Llantwit Major. The main archaeological excavations were carried out in the late 19^th century. The first half of the 20^th century revealed a house and subsidiary buildings built around a double courtyard dating to the mid-2nd century and pottery and coins dating from the mid-2^nd to 4^th century and hints to the end of occupied use at the end of the 4^th century. The site is described as being used again later in the early medieval as a cemetery.

St Illtud’s Church

St Illtyd’s is a Medieval church with 12th century origins built on a site with earlier links to St Illtud and an early Medieval monastic clas. It is located just a little walk away from the modern town core. Very little remains from the early 12^th century church except for a few architectural stones. The most impressive 12^th century piece is a circular font with scale carved decoration. The tower, nave and chancel form the eastern section of the church all date to the 13th century along with the Galilee Chapel at the end of the western section. The West Chapel was rebuilt in the 15^th century in place of a 12^th century building.

The eastern section has restored medieval murals on its walls. A 13^th century painting of Mary Magdalene holding a cup of ointment can be seen on the north wall of the Chancel. The painting of St Christopher on the north wall of the East Church dates to around 1400.

The Galilee Chapel houses a number of 9th and 10th century crosses associated with the monastic foundation at Llantwit Major. Originally housed in the West Church the stones moved into the purposely renovated Galilee Chapel after the turn of the 21^st century.

St Illtud  Crosses and Stones

• Samson Pillar – Heavily inscribed 9^th century stone erected by an Abbot called Samson.  
• The Samson Cross aka Illtud Cross – 10^th century carved cross placed by Samson. Heavily worn and incomplete.
• The Houelt Cross – Celtic cross dedicated to Houelt, son of Res. Impressive example of a Celtic cross in a near complete condition.
• Cylindrical Pillar – 10^th or 11^th century pillar. Portion of pillar that may have once formed part of the church structure.
• Cross Shaft – Late 9^th or early 10^th century ornately carved cross shaft

The church is open most days along with access to view the stones.

Nearby associated sites include the Grange and Gatehouse

The Grange and Gatehouse

Llantwit Major Grange was a grange of Tewkesbury Abbey consisting of enclosures dating from the early 12th century to 1539. The grange was excavated in 1937 and revealed a farmhouse, stables, bakehouse, brewhouse and orchard. The Gatehouse is found to the north part of Llantwit Major Grange. It is a largely intact 13th century, two storied rectangular building with pointed door and gate arches in north and south facades, and a modern slate roof.

Other Things to See in Llantwit Major Town

• Town Hall – The first building on the site was a Norman Manorial Courthouse. It was rebuilt in the 15^th century and became a Guildhall then a Bailiff’s House in 1894 it was taken over by the Parish Council. It now stands within the modern core of the town and hosts a number of local events.
• Old Swan Inn – The Old Swan Inn is a beautiful stone building dates to the early 16^th century. It still operates as a public house
• War Memorial -Restored in 1921 from steps and base of earlier cross as the town’s war memorial, after destruction in the Civil War. Traditional site of Llantwit Major’s fairs and markets. Forms centrepiece of the Square, the historic centre of the town, a pleasant enclosure formed by the surrounding historic buildings.

Frampton Windmill                  

Frampton Windmill is a landmark to the north east of Llantwit Major town and it consists of the shell of a cylindrical tower. It is dated to 1820 and said to be built by Arthur Riddle of Cardiff. The last grinding at this mill was made around 1846-8. It has been heavily restored and converted to residential use in the 1980s.

A Medieval Harbour?

The evidence of a harbour at Llantwit Major consists of the long meandering line of 208 stone blocks that are not a natural feature. The location suggests a small harbour, located where the beach level drops and the incoming tide fills early and offers protection from the south westerly winds. However, until further research is done, no definite date or function can be given to the structure.

Llantwit Major Beach

Llantwit Major Beach is a small rocky beach and a popular spot along the Glamorgan Heritage Coastline for a day out and for surfers and fossil hunters. It has a café and toilets (open daily not overnight) and is seasonally manned by lifeguards. The waters here present with underwater currents so entering the sea is only advised when lifeguards are stationed, and between flags indicating safe waters. Tidetimes can be found here It is only dog friendly between October and April between May and September dogs are banned from the beach. There are other all year-round dog friendly beaches in the Vale of Glamorgan or the Wales Coast Path as alternatives.

How to get to the Beach

To get to the beach it’s a drive or a walk through the town down a narrow lane to the coastline and carpark. Note on busy days the lane to the beach and the carpark can get very busy.

Walks

There is a Valeways Walk that covers the area from town to coast. The Wales Coast Path Walk towards Barry will take you over Castle Ditches and Summerhouse Hillforts and past WWII defenses built along the coastline.

For articles relating to areas near Llantwit Major see St Donat’s, Boverton and Marcross